Disassembly/Repair of the mobile device Samsung Galaxy S23 SM-S911 (Samsung Galaxy S23 SM-S911B, SM-S911B/DS, SM-S911U, SM-S911U1, SM-S911W, SM-S911N, SM-S9110, SM-S911E, SM-S911E/DS) with each step description and the required set of tools.

⚠️️ Before disassembling, do not forget to turn your phone off.

First, we need to remove the SIM card tray.

To do this, we use the SIM eject tool.

Insert it into the hole and carefully push out the tray.

If the tray doesn’t come out easily, we can also use tweezers to help.

Next, we need to heat the back cover to around 70°C (160°F).

For this, we use a heating pad, but you can also use a hair dryer.

After 5–10 minutes, we move on to removing the back cover. We use a thin plastic film for this. It can be the protective film from a new display or just a thin film of plastic from an office supply store. Carefully insert it into the gap between the back cover and the midframe, and slide it along the edge to cut through the adhesive layer.

As always, be extra careful around the cameras so you don’t accidentally scratch or damage the lenses. Also, take care around the buttons.

We have to cover the camera lenses so dust doesn’t get in.

Notice that we stick the protective film not directly on the lenses, but on the rim around them.

Next, we start removing screws. For this, we use a 1.5 mm Phillips screwdriver, also known as a Phillips #000.

We unscrew the screws holding the NFC and wireless charging assembly.

We disconnect the connector. Then we carefully lift the assembly with a non-metal tool.

Disconnect the battery connector as soon as you can. Use a non-metallic or plastic tool to avoid any damage.

ℹ️️ The Samsung Galaxy S23 SM-S911 model has a battery EB-BS912ABY with a capacity of 3900 mAh (also known as a rechargeable battery).

Now we move on to the screws at the bottom.

It’s best to fold the battery flex cable aside so the connector doesn’t accidentally snap back into place.

We remove the bottom screws using the same 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screwdriver.

It’s a good idea to keep these screws separate from the previous ones, just in case.

Next, we need to remove the loudspeaker cover.

Pry it up from the right spot, lift it, and set aside the cover along with the NFC and wireless charging module.

After that, we disconnect the interconnect flex cables and the antenna cable and move them aside.

By the way, the flex cables have arrows showing the direction toward the motherboard.

Once the flex cables are removed, we can move on to the sub-board.

We unscrew the three screws securing the sub-board. They look identical, but it’s still better to keep them separate from the others.

We carefully lift out the sub-board. It sits slightly recessed in the display frame, so take it out gently.

The sub-board contains the charging port, microphone, and the SIM connector is located on the other side.

Now let’s move to the motherboard.

We need to remove the screws at the top that hold down the speaker cover and the motherboard.

Again, we use the 1.5 mm Phillips #000. Keep these screws separate as well.

We need to remove the top speaker cover. Gently pry it up at the edge, lift it, and remove it.

We can also remove the screws holding the cameras on one side.

As we can see, under the cover we have the front-facing camera. Disconnect its connector.

Carefully remove the printed circuit board. There is no need to use a lever or try to reach the circuit board by force. Make sure that nothing is getting in the way or holding the circuit board.

The motherboard, also, may be attached with attachments like latches or hooks, be careful.

⚠️️ Do not bend the circuit board when removing it or push tools under it. Unbeknownst to yourself, you can damage components or cables from the inside.

Then we flip motherboard over to disconnect the rear cameras.

We disconnect the rear cameras and set them aside.

That leaves the battery.

As is typical for this Samsung series, there’s one green or blue pull tab in the middle. On the sides, there are clear films or tabs that you need to fold back as far as possible, then pull up on the center tab to release the battery.

Also typical for this type of adhesive – part of the battery will likely be stuck more firmly in one area, usually because of heat from the battery or the display frame.

So, we need to find the spot where the battery is stuck. Carefully work it free using a plastic film and, if necessary, some isopropyl alcohol.

It’s best not to use a metal tool, since that could puncture the battery casing.

Once we separate the stuck spot, the rest of the battery will come out pretty easily.

In the housing remained: the front camera.